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被忽视的酒王产区比埃尔索Bierzo

杜罗河Duero有Pingus、里奥哈Rioja有Vega Sicilia、普里奥拉托Priorat有L’Ermita,而比埃尔索Bierzo有什么?在西班牙的卡斯提拉-莱昂Castilla y León地区的西北角有一个被忽视的产区比埃尔索Bierzo,对于大多数喝酒的朋友来说甚至是陌生的,与加利西亚Galicia和阿斯图里亚斯Asturias交界,由两个风土迥异的地势组成:上比埃尔索Bierzo Alto,起伏不断的小山谷,土壤富含矿物质,葡萄种植在布满板岩的上坡上;另一个是宽阔平坦的平原Bajo Bierzo。

从古罗马将农作物、葡萄树藤、酿酒技术带到比埃尔索Bierzo,与其他产区一样拥有悠久的酿酒历史。在连绵的世纪里不断发展,葡萄酒享誉了加利西亚Galicia和阿斯图里亚斯Asturias。至到19世纪遇上了根瘤蚜灾害,葡萄遭受了沉重的打击,随后借助嫁接砧木技术才得以缓慢恢复。1989年,比埃尔索Bierzo被评为DO(Denominación de Origen),法定红葡萄有:孟西亚Mencía、歌海娜、廷托雷拉歌海娜Garnacha Tintorera,白葡萄有:格德约Godello、多纳·布兰卡(白夫人)Doña Blanca、帕洛米诺Palomino、马尔瓦西亚Malvasía,其中孟西亚Mencía是最大的葡萄种植面积,占有75%。

不难理解在林裕森一书中《西班牙葡萄酒爱》提到“Bierzo让我看到一个全新却又蕴含地方及传统风味的葡萄酒风格在我眼前诞生。如此年轻的产区却有不少酒款已展现了特别精巧细致、西班牙未曾有过的优雅丰姿”。因为在比埃尔索Bierzo被屏障在极端气候的大西洋区与中央高原,有与加利西亚Galicia适量的湿度与降雨、有与卡斯蒂利亚Asturias一样的炎热干燥气候,并且每年受到2200小时的日照,完美地糅合了两种气候的细致与饱满,被认为是一个相当有前景的葡萄酒产区。

西班牙教父级酿酒师Alvaro Palacios,跟随过帕图斯酒庄Petrus的酿酒师让·皮埃尔·穆埃克斯Jean-Pierre Moueix学习酿酒技术,在普里奥拉托Priorat开创与自己同名的酒庄Alvaro Palacios酿造出了Alvaro Palacios L’Ermita Velles Vinyes成为了普里奥拉托Priorat的酒王,在声誉上与杜罗河Duero酒王Dominio de Pingus齐驱并进,而极具先瞻性的他又看上一座被忽视的葡萄福地—比埃尔索Bierzo产区,又打造了产区最顶尖的Descendientes De Jose Palacios La Faraona,在Wine Seacher上的平均身价已经超越了平古斯Dominio de Pingus和Alvaro Palacios L’Ermita Velles Vinyes,排在WS西班牙最贵名单的第二名,可见比埃尔索Bierzo是一块酿造世界级精品葡萄酒的风水宝地。

以下来自国际知名葡萄酒评分机构对比埃尔索Bierzo最顶尖酒款Descendientes De Jose Palacios La Faraona的评价:

DESCENDIENTES DE J. PALACIOS BIERZO LA FARAONA 2014
Wine Advocate, 100pts
When I first tasted the 2014 La Faraona my heart started beating faster. But it was during a very intense moment and I was not sure. But when I put my nose in the glass, after pouring it when sitting down in front of my computer to taste all the 2014s and 2015s, I knew it was a true coup de coeur—a sensation, an intuition and emotion only a handful of wines are capable of. There are similarities with the 2013, but this 2014 is more profound; it has more complexity, and there are herbal nuances that, again, took me to the Loire, dark spices, earthy hints, tobacco, flowers. The palate is symmetric, precise, textured and with a very long finish. There is some austerity here, but the ripeness felt just perfect. I think this is clearly a 100 pointer. In 2014, the wine is made up of 95% Mencía, 3% white grapes (Jerez and Godello) and 2% Alicante Bouschet and Gran Negro. 597 bottles, 45 magnums, 5 double magnums and 4 Jeroboams were filled on March 16, 2016.

DESCENDIENTES DE J. PALACIOS BIERZO LA FARAONA 2015
James Suckling, 99pts
This has so much iron and blood character with dark fruit and spice. Intense aromas. Full body with an endless depth and structure. The chewy, yet fine-grained tannins are fantastic. A great, classic wine. Handmade from some of the steepest vineyards in the world. 1,700 bottles. Drink in 2020 and onwards.

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本文来自网络,不代表醇酒伴侣立场,转载请注明出处:https://www.c9wine.com/beihushidejiuwangchanqubiaiersuobierzo/
Ivan

作者: Ivan

经常假正经、长期扮斯文,新入酒途从滴酒不沾到一入酒门情深似海,分享葡萄酒世界所见所闻所味的乐趣。天若有情,江湖相见,先饮为敬。

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