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被忽視的酒王產區比埃爾索Bierzo

杜羅河Duero有Pingus、裏奧哈Rioja有Vega Sicilia、普裏奧拉托Priorat有L’Ermita,而比埃爾索Bierzo有什麼?在西班牙的卡斯提拉-萊昂Castilla y León地區的西北角有一個被忽視的產區比埃爾索Bierzo,對於大多數喝酒的朋友來說甚至是陌生的,與加利西亞Galicia和阿斯圖裏亞斯Asturias交界,由兩個風土迥異的地勢組成:上比埃爾索Bierzo Alto,起伏不斷的小山穀,土壤富含礦物質,葡萄種植在佈滿板岩的上坡上;另一個是寬闊平坦的平原Bajo Bierzo。

從古羅馬將農作物、葡萄樹藤、釀酒技術帶到比埃爾索Bierzo,與其他產區一樣擁有悠久的釀酒歷史。在連綿的世紀裏不斷發展,葡萄酒享譽了加利西亞Galicia和阿斯圖裏亞斯Asturias。至到19世紀遇上了根瘤蚜災害,葡萄遭受了沉重的打擊,隨後借助嫁接砧木技術才得以緩慢恢復。1989年,比埃爾索Bierzo被評為DO(Denominación de Origen),法定紅葡萄有:孟西亞Mencía、歌海娜、廷托雷拉歌海娜Garnacha Tintorera,白葡萄有:格德約Godello、多納·布蘭卡(白夫人)Doña Blanca、帕洛米諾Palomino、馬爾瓦西亞Malvasía,其中孟西亞Mencía是最大的葡萄種植面積,佔有75%。

不難理解在林裕森一書中《西班牙葡萄酒愛》提到“Bierzo讓我看到一個全新卻又蘊含地方及傳統風味的葡萄酒風格在我眼前誕生。如此年輕的產區卻有不少酒款已展現了特別精巧細緻、西班牙未曾有過的優雅丰姿”。因為在比埃爾索Bierzo被屏障在極端氣候的大西洋區與中央高原,有與加利西亞Galicia適量的濕度與降雨、有與卡斯蒂利亞Asturias一樣的炎熱乾燥氣候,並且每年受到2200小時的日照,完美地糅合了兩種氣候的細緻與飽滿,被認為是一個相當有前景的葡萄酒產區。

西班牙教父級釀酒師Alvaro Palacios,跟隨過帕圖斯酒莊Petrus的釀酒師讓·皮埃爾·穆埃克斯Jean-Pierre Moueix學習釀酒技術,在普裏奧拉托Priorat開創與自己同名的酒莊Alvaro Palacios釀造出了Alvaro Palacios L’Ermita Velles Vinyes成為了普裏奧拉托Priorat的酒王,在聲譽上與杜羅河Duero酒王Dominio de Pingus齊驅並進,而極具先瞻性的他又看上一座被忽視的葡萄福地—比埃爾索Bierzo產區,又打造了產區最頂尖的Descendientes De Jose Palacios La Faraona,在Wine Seacher上的平均身價已經超越了平古斯Dominio de Pingus和Alvaro Palacios L’Ermita Velles Vinyes,排在WS西班牙最貴名單的第二名,可見比埃爾索Bierzo是一塊釀造世界級精品葡萄酒的風水寶地。

以下來自國際知名葡萄酒評分機構對比埃爾索Bierzo最頂尖酒款Descendientes De Jose Palacios La Faraona的評價:

DESCENDIENTES DE J. PALACIOS BIERZO LA FARAONA 2014
Wine Advocate, 100pts
When I first tasted the 2014 La Faraona my heart started beating faster. But it was during a very intense moment and I was not sure. But when I put my nose in the glass, after pouring it when sitting down in front of my computer to taste all the 2014s and 2015s, I knew it was a true coup de coeur—a sensation, an intuition and emotion only a handful of wines are capable of. There are similarities with the 2013, but this 2014 is more profound; it has more complexity, and there are herbal nuances that, again, took me to the Loire, dark spices, earthy hints, tobacco, flowers. The palate is symmetric, precise, textured and with a very long finish. There is some austerity here, but the ripeness felt just perfect. I think this is clearly a 100 pointer. In 2014, the wine is made up of 95% Mencía, 3% white grapes (Jerez and Godello) and 2% Alicante Bouschet and Gran Negro. 597 bottles, 45 magnums, 5 double magnums and 4 Jeroboams were filled on March 16, 2016.

DESCENDIENTES DE J. PALACIOS BIERZO LA FARAONA 2015
James Suckling, 99pts
This has so much iron and blood character with dark fruit and spice. Intense aromas. Full body with an endless depth and structure. The chewy, yet fine-grained tannins are fantastic. A great, classic wine. Handmade from some of the steepest vineyards in the world. 1,700 bottles. Drink in 2020 and onwards.

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本文来自网络,不代表Wine Couple立场,转载请注明出处:https://www.c9wine.com/hk/beihudejiuwangbiaisuobierzo/
Ivan

作者: Ivan

經常假正經、長期扮斯文,新入酒途從滴酒不沾到一入酒門情深似海,分享葡萄酒世界所見所聞所味的樂趣。天若有情,江湖相見,先飲為敬。

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